Por Perry Gladstone Photo A surfer Dream
Driving down the Costanera in Costa Ballena, South Pacific Costa Rica (#34 road), a young spider monkey ran out in front of the car. He barely made it across then leaped onto a nearby tree where another juvenile monkey was anxiously waiting. I saw the two of them clinging to the small trunk, totally engrossed in the moment. I am certain one was saying to the other, “Whoa dude that was close!”
I couldn’t help but think of the last surf trip I took with my pals. The waves were huge and at one point I got hammered by a giant wall of white water and dragged towards the rocks. I barely made it. Back on shore my friends were quick to tell me how lucky I was. It’s not a coincidence that our experiences and those of the rest of the world are similar.
We share the same planet, air, and life force, regardless of where we believe it comes from. Bottom line: we are all in the soup together. Those that surf are quick to extol its virtues. Part sport, part meditation, technical yet totally organic, surfing is a unique blend of freedom, creativity, adventure and skill.
Of course the wave has its own course and so the surfer must both navigate and negotiate the relationship at every moment. Life too, has its course and it’s up to us to choose our path in each moment. Like me and the monkey, some of our choices will be close calls. Other times they might be precious, tragic or forgotten.
It’s all part of the adventure as we surf on through.