SURF SEASON ON THE BALLENA COAST
AUTHOR: GREG GORDON
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Much like our summer and winter seasons change, the seasons of big surf also changes. The summer months of hot sunny days are gone for now, and a more wet, stormy, and cooler season brings more gifts. Many refer to this wet season as “the green season.” As a surfer, I refer to it as “ the surf season.”
The storms and the rains are accompanied by storms from the South Pacific and the Pacific Coast of South America.
The energy from these far-away storms arrives on our beaches in the shape of massive waves. As consistent as the storms, but not necessarily a result, these waves temporarily change our local beach culture.
For the avid and experienced surfers, this is the highlight of the year when waves heights at certain breaks can reach up to 15ft. Different beaches and surf spots that need high swell energy to produce waves are now in their prime, and beaches that swimmers previously enjoyed could potentially be danger For those who are learning to surf, places like Playa Dominical and Playa Hermosa is only recommended if you are with a surf school.
Beaches like Playa Dominicalito, Playa Uvita, and Playa Ventanas are recommended and are more manageable. With the heavy rains, the rivers are now shedding more water and creating strong currents and rip tides. There are still several beaches where you don’t have to worry about giant waves and crazy rip tides for those who are not surfers. For example, Playa Pinuela, Playa Ventanas, and Playa Uvita are still ok for swimming but be cautious. For those who are learning to surf without an instructor, look to beaches like Playa Uvita, Playa Ventanas, and Playa Dominicalito.
During our summer, the waves there are usually tiny to non-existent; now, we will have more consistent small waves.
For the more advanced surfers, look to beaches like Playa Dominical, Playa Hermosa, and the various reef breaks that need this high energy to create a wave. The surf season usually lasts until late October and early November.
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